Spring is here and for so many it means flocking to your local feed and farm store to pick up chicks. The COVID-19 pandemic has encouraged us to find new routines and for so many it’s included raising backyard chickens. Whether you’re new to having chickens or adding to your flock it’s important to take extra measures to make sure your new chicks adjust properly.

I sat down with Charlie of Charley’s Chicks in Jacksonville, Florida. Charlie raises and sells a wide range of Heritage and Cross Breed Laying Chickens. He kindly answered a ton of questions about how to choose the types of chickens for your flock, chicken gut health supplements and other holistic digestive solutions, along with his best advice for raising baby chickens.

If you’re looking to start a flock or are new to raising chickens Charlie is your go to guy! His facility is impressive; the chicks are kept in clean, safe, brooding boxes and overall it seems like a very bird-friendly environment. Charlie and his family have created a family-friendly atmosphere where customers are met with warmth and knowledge. See for yourself, stop by Charley’s Chicks in Jacksonville and read on to hear more from my conversation with Charlie.

Deciding Factors in Choosing Your Chickens: Which Breeds Are Best?

Are you looking for a source of self-sustainability or a colorful pet that gives back? That really sets the tone for which breeds to choose from.

Depending on which of these three categories you fall into can help determine the breed of chicken that’s best for your backyard.

Best Chicken Breeds for Eggs:

If the character and overall attitude of the birds aren’t that important, and egg production is your biggest priority, a White Leghorn, ISA Brown, or an Amberlink, would be a good pick. They’re flighty and don’t really care about hanging out with the family but these breeds typically lay a lot of eggs.

Friendly Chicken Breeds:

These breeds don’t really have a ton of pizzazz in their plumage but they’re traditionally known for their gentle temperament more than their egg laying qualities. If you have little ones or are looking for a family-friendly bird, check out Buff Orpingtons, Cochin, Light and Dark Brahmas, and Barred Rocks, to name a few.

Fancy Breeds of Backyard Chickens:

The rare colors and breeds of chickens that either lay colorful eggs or have unique plumage. These are typically still cuddly, gentle, and are usually really easy to manage. Those would be the Easter Eggers, Ameraucanas, Olive Eggers, Cream Legbars, Black Copper Marans, Blue Laced Red Wyandotte, Lavender Orpingtons, Crested Polish, or Barnevelders.

When people ask me what type of birds they should get I always encourage them to do their homework and figure out the type of bird they want: are they looking for a chicken that lays a lot of eggs, or is friendly, or is colorful? Once that’s identified, I can make a recommendation.

OK, so I know which breeds I prefer, but, what’s your best advice for how to raise backyard chickens?

Start with nutrition. My advice to new flock owners would be that they understand that a chicken’s diet is different from ours.The birds have specific diet requirements in order for them to lay regularly. They need a certain level of protein, a certain level of minerals, and a healthy gut to be consistent. I start all my birds on my favorite chicken gut health supplement: Organic Gut Solution® Poultry Formula, and it’s a huge contributing factor to their health. A 20% [protein] and an overall well balanced feed, mixed with OGS assures the birds are well started, allows for a full potential of growth, and lowers nitrogen levels in their manure (which is a great way to keep your coop clean). We also recommend keeping treats to less than 10% of their daily intake.

Should I free range my flock?

Free Ranging Chickens is an excellent way for your flock to have access to nutritional value, but also comes at great risk. Free ranging birds recognize what they need nutritionally and will look for it, they’re really cool that way. They want rooted forage, bugs, worms, and other insects...however it’s important to recognize that giving them dry mealworms is substantially different from a nutritional standpoint. If you do decide to free range, you must be prepared for mortality and a predator attack. A coop and run is a much less risky way to keep your birds safe. For those who don’t want to miss out on the nutritional value of free ranging, be sure to keep an eye on your flock and do your best to keep them safe.

What supplies do I need for my new chickens?

Once you know how many birds you’re looking for, we can determine the size and amount of equipment needed. You’ll need a brooding box, which can be a box, trough, or tub-like bin. It’s really a space where they’ll stay while they’re small. Essentially think of the brooding box as the nursery for your chicks. The location of the brooder box is super important. There needs to be adequate air flow so the temperature is right. Birds emit a ton of dust and it can quickly become tough for them to breath if there’s not adequate ventilation. We don’t want it to be drafty, especially in the brooder box since they’re so close to the ground when they’re little. It’s important to find a happy-medium where they have air exchange without the air blowing on the birds. For those in a warmer climate, four weeks on average is a good amount of time for your young flock to stay in the brooder. If you’re in a colder climate then you may want to keep your chicks in the brooder for a longer period of time, usually between six and seven weeks.

You’ll also need a 1 Quart Feeder and a 1 Quart Waterer which is good for about six birds for the first four to five weeks. As the chicks grow, they will need more feeders and waterers. Getting the feeder and waterer elevated will save tons of time and money on clean up, wasted bedding, and food. When it comes to the type of bedding, I always recommend kiln dried wood chips for in the brooder. To make sure the temperature is appropriate, you’ll need a heat lamp and a thermometer. It’s important to know the temperature the birds are under. For the first week they need access to between 90 and 95 degrees (F). After that, subtract 5 degrees each week while they’re in the brooder box. The heat lamp will not only keep them warm in colder temperatures, but also provides adequate light and access to food and water at their own leisure and will help create consistent laying habits once they’re old enough to lay. The brooder should be large enough that it can provide half a square foot of space per bird. In addition to adequate space, each feeder and waterer has a recommendation for how many birds they’re suited for.

Once your birds outgrow the brooder box it’s time to choose the right coop for your flock. The amount of ventilation should be the primary factor in choosing a coop. Don’t put them in a shed that has no windows. I think the point of having your own flock is to go away from a commercial type setup, which is why I recommend 4 square feet per adult bird in the coop. The coop is where they lay eggs and sleep, they spend about a quarter of the day in their coop or house. The run is a fenced area where they can eat, drink, and live. That’s where they’re spending most of their day. For a genuinely happy and healthy chicken, an optimal amount of space per bird would be 20 square feet. When they have limited space they get stressed. They don’t have the space to get away from their neighbor and the chickens get overcrowded and aggressive towards each other. They won’t eat or lay the way they should unless they have adequate space to move.

Any Other Tips for First-Time Chicken Owners?

My best advice is to do your homework for predators in your area. Stay out late at night and put out potential attractions to see what types of animals are nearby. Talk to your neighbors and find out if you have raccoons, opossums, coyotes, or even neighbors’ cats and dogs. Make sure you know and prepare for what’s in your area so you can effectively fortify your coop and run. Aviary netting on top of your run is a great hawk deterrent. Installing hardware cloth at the base of your fence and burying it about 12 inches down will greatly deter a digging predator. They can’t dig through a steel hardware cloth. Be sure to clean the feeders and waterers and change the water daily. Making sure they’re warm enough and have a clean air source when they’re young along with OGS as a daily ration in their feed will help maintain a healthy flock. OGS may support gut function and immune support. It’s the only product I’ve seen that can do this effectively leaving the bird able to absorb more nutrition for ration so they eat less and grow to their full potential...not to mention the sharp and horrible ammonia stench that goes away. Lastly, have fun and enjoy your flock. They’re a fluffy pet that gives back and we hope that you love raising chicks as much as we do.

Check out Charley’s Chicks on Facebook and Instagram or visit them in person!

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Backyard Chickens 101 | Organic Gut Solution